We’re currently in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, an exceedingly popular place among the retired expat/neo-nomad types of the world. We figured it was high time to see what all the hubbub was about. One week in, and what’s not to like? It has a beautiful 16th century colonial city center that’s a UNESCO world heritage site. At 6200 ft, the weather is consistently perfect, neither too hot or too cold. Not to mention, there are nice things to eat and to see.
Let me show you around.
It’s a hilly town and the altitude adjustment hit us hard the first days.
There are loads of tourists here, and not just from north of the border. It’s a popular place for Mexicans to visit. Nearby Dolores Hildago is where the Mexican independence movement started and Señor Allende was one of those who rallied to the cause.
The American expat population stands at about 5%. We spot each other easily, in our sportswear and linen and expensive running shoes, flitting from hip coffee shops to gourmet lunches. We are of a species.
It’s a lovely place, and I can see why every expat we’ve spoken with is in love with SMA. Yet my main feeling here is that of containment and perimeters; a concentric walling in.
We’re staying a terrific little casita attached to our host’s stunning palatial digs. Every morning, we unfold outwards. Unlock the 2 patios doors to our private walled courtyard, open to the sky overhead. Another couple of doors to reach our semi-private walled walkway, with bougainvillea vines on one side and a tall glass shard topped wall on the other. One more security door and we’re out in the world.
According to Wikipedia, Sand Miguel started to become a thing when some US artists “discovered” it after the 1918 flu ripped through, helping to change its trajectory from ghost town to arts haven. Things really got going with an influx of post WW II GI bill recipients coming to enroll in art school. There is still quite a large arts community.
Our host tells us that a large majority of expats here aren’t just content to take what SMA has to offer. There’s myriad volunteer organizations to help them give back. But a large population of foreigners can’t help but change a place, for good and bad.
Emblematic of the changes SMA has undergone, we walk past the textile factory turned art center on our way downtown. Industry and agriculture, unable to compete with China and elsewhere, cedes to tourism and catering to the aging expat population. So there are jobs, but the native population has trouble affording housing in the center and are being pushed to the perimeter by increasing prices.
The center is easily walkable, filled with bars, restaurants, shops, and yet more art galleries. Cafes, ice cream carts and taco stands line the central square around the cathedral.
The businesses all appear to be local. I’ve only spotted one chain. Of course, it’s a Starbucks.
It’s a charming and pleasant place, yet we’re on our toes. Produce must be carefully washed and peeled; water must be bottled or otherwise purified. Dengue fever is on the rise here. We’re advised to take a cab after dark. This is not to say that we feel threatened in our day to day, but there are things to consider. The hyper developed world allows you to outsource many of these concerns. Much of the rest of the world does not get that privilege.
We cross another threshold, an invisible one, out of the city center to find more typical taquerias.
And so the days go by. We tuck ourselves back inside in the evening, spiraling back through walls and doors, turning the locks. Expanding and contracting, reconciling interior and exterior.
Despite my ambivalence, I’m glad to be here. We’ve crossed day trips off the list in favor of relaxation. Our time in Chicago was a super charged 3 weeks. We need a breather, un-ambitious lazy days and plenty of time to plot out the months ahead. Then onward!
Maer
The Let's Get Lost Game 