Returning

We’re leaving Japan early. Who knew this Chinese year of the Fire Horse, the notorious chaos-bringer, would have war up … More

Takayama and the beauty of persistent things

Takayama, in the Japanese Alps, is considered one of the little Kyotos of Japan. There’s 38 all told. Why not … More

Notes on Kanazawa

On our last day in Kyoto, Mark said, you know? I could spend 3 months here. I said Mark, it’s … More

Kyoto at a meander

The luxury of time in a place like Japan is a beautiful thing. We’ve previously done it at a see-all-the-things … More

No regrets. Kyoto

Yes, we’re in Kyoto. Yes, I said we wouldn’t come back a third time, in favor of seeing other places. … More

France, Japan, and cultures of care

So this happened… The morning we were due to leave France for the US and parts beyond, I had a … More

Now, where were we?

Oh right, going places and seeing things! But first, it’s time to announce the 2026 theme of the year winner. … More

Oh dear god, we ate halusky—a dispatch from Bratislava

You may be saying, what? Halusky? Those who know it are saying, why? We’re saying, oof. Bryndzove halusky is the … More

Gaaah, Prague!

Prague, man. It’s one of the poster children of over tourism and thus had been on my reluctant travel list. … More

Gdansk, the city that almost wasn’t

The architecture of any long-settled place is the legacy of wars and conquests: who won and who lost; what got … More