Notes on Kanazawa

On our last day in Kyoto, Mark said, you know? I could spend 3 months here. I said Mark, it’s not you, it’s me. I think we should see other places.

And so, Kanazawa! We’re here for a month because I thought we could use a nice break at this point in our travels and also because I thought Kanazawa merited a deeper dive. Not to mention there’s loads of day trip possibilities here on the Sea of Japan side, but that’s for another time. In my day to day, Kanazawa is knocking me out, largely because of all the green space.

The big draw is the Kenroku-en garden, considered to be one of the 3 best in Japan. I don’t know the criteria, but it’s astonishingly beautiful. It’s a stone’s throw from our current Machiya and the entrance fee is all of 2 bucks so we can return again and again.

But seemingly everywhere we turn, there’s a pocket garden, shrine, or wooded walking path.

This is view from Gyokusen-an, a tea house we stumbled upon after being thwarted from finding coffee. I think we won that round.

Gardens everywhere

Like Kyoto, Kanazawa wasn’t bombed during the Second World War. However, Kyoto was the capital of Japan for centuries so its density of splendidness is unsurpassed. A temple that would be the pride and joy of another city can be just another temple in Kyoto.

But Kanazawa is manageable. It’s not exactly off the beaten path, but it’s far enough from the golden triangle that it sees less tourists. You can get your arms around Kanazawa. We’re staying in the center and are walking everywhere. And you can swing those arms freely without hitting anyone else!

It has three marvellously intact Edo area samurai districts in addition to a castle

Some of the old houses have tea service.

Even in the further out neighbourhoods, it’s a great town for getting lost and getting surprised in.

There’s also gorgeous minimalist modernism, like the museum dedicated to D.T. Suzuki, the zen master.

There are also plenty of dull modern rectangles, but this post is a compendium of delights, like this box of public snow shovels.

Need I tell you that it’s all very clean and quiet? Japan is a respectful place. You would no more encounter a boom boom car here than a rampaging elephant. Public bathrooms are absolutely everywhere and absolutely clean. There are no public trash cans anywhere and zero litter. You got a mess? You carry it back home. There are rules.

And helpful signage.

Until next time! Keep your heads down but keep looking to the future, my friends!

Cheers,

Maer