Our bags are packed and we’re gone, gone, gone. First stop to ease us into this whole thing, Italy. We spent the previous 3 weeks traveling with my sister through Northern Italy: Turin, then Ferrara, Parma, Ravenna, and Florence from our base in Bologna. Then it was time to ship her back to the US and for us to start to wander.
I love Italy, but I don’t entirely trust it. Their food is amazing, their organizational skills, not so much. We’ve had too many things go awry on previous visits to let our guard down. I joke and say that it’s not a serious country, but I’m only half joking.
I’d booked a night train to get us to Southern Italy. Private compartment for two. Or so they said. I got an email saying our 11:30 pm train would be changing to an earlier departure time. Oh, good! Excellent news!
Ha. ha. ha.
Because Italy is not to be trusted in matters of infrastructure, we went to the train station ticket office a couple of days before departure. First guy was brusque, matter of fact. Yes, that’s your train. Direct. When I pointed out that our original train was still reservable, he said, no, 10:15.
I still wasn’t convinced so Mark went back the next day. He got a lovely woman who confirmed everything on her computer. We were good to go.
I’d booked our apartment until the following morning. Occupying ourselves with our backpacks in Bologna until past my bedtime was not on my bucket list. At the appointed time, we left. Keys were in a lockbox so if it all went blooey, we’d have a plan b.
My friends, it went blooey. Our train pulled up; our reserved car was all just regular seats. We ran down the platform and found a conductor. She said yes, your ticket is valid. Get on.
Got on we did. I told Mark, I bet we’re sleeping in the aisle tonight.
Indeed. There was no reserved compartment for us. There wasn’t even a seat. The train was completely booked. We stood awkwardly in the narrow corridor while the various train managers discussed our predicament. Then they all left, leaving us to wonder if we’d be put off at a forlorn and abandoned station all the while the train was speeding us away from our only certain bed for that night.
I’m a champion worrier. I can catastrophize Olympically. But once something has actually gone wrong (barring serious threat to life or limb), I’m placid. Calm. Laughing even. This is my life now, standing room only on an all night train.
The conductor finally came back and said we’d get off in an hour and a half in Rimini and catch another train to our destination. There would be a compartment for us, but would you please wait between cars.
And yes, despite our train getting into Rimini late, the second train was waiting. It wasn’t the compartment for 2 that we’d reserved, but there were 2 beds for us in a dorm compartment that was otherwise empty. Not what I signed up for but there would be sleeping.
10 am, we pulled into Lecce. Our host let us know that our apartment would be available right away.
Utterly famished , we dropped off our bags and went straight for food. It was too early for lunch, this was the best we could do.
And immediately, I forgave Italy.
Onward!
Maer
Thanks for sharing your experience. I struggle with my wish to travel by Amtrak in the U.S. Hoping things go better in southern Italy. Caution in Naples where my grandmother’s family is from. Been told any bags unattended at any stop could be grabbed by someone getting on and jumping off as quickly as they can. Always wanted to go there but have been hesitant because of that warning
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Bob, I’ve done some fantastic Amtrak trips but you should know that they don’t own the tracks and are last priority behind the freight trains. Big delays are par for the course, pack a couple of extra sandwiches !
As for Naples, it’s one of our favorite cities. You have to be careful like anywhere : bags secured, important things never leaving your person, but it’s well worth it. I hope you’ll go and see for yourself !
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